I loved going to the arcade as a child. Five dollars from my mother amounted to what seemed like a mountain of quarters. The Boardwalk Arcade (still there? still there.) in my hometown was the place most typical.
- Raw Materials
- About 4′ x 4′ of Plywood
- Flooring Plywood (very thin 1/8″ plywood generally used for underfloors)
- Clear Lucite Acrylic Sheet
- 1″ Aluminum Angle Stock
- 2″ Gold Wood Screws
- Zip Ties
- Pipe Hanger Strap (Plumber’s Tape)
- 16x Sanwa Style 30mm Arcade Buttons
- 2x 8-way Joysticks
- 1x Generic SPST Switch
- 4x Xbox 360 Wired USB Controllers
- Jig Saw, Circular Saw, Standard Saw and Miter Box
- 3″ Hole Saw, 30mm hole saw, 28mm hole saw
- Miscellaneous Hand Tools
- Shuttle mini-ITX Donor PC
- Dell Optiplex Power Supply
- Core2 Duo Processor
- 4GB RAM
- 120GB SD
- 80mm Fan and Grill
- ATI HD5450 Low Profile Graphics Card
- WiFi USB Dongle
- Windows 7 x64
- Hyperspin 1.3
- USB bus-powered speakers with 1/8″ input
- USB bus-powered LED strip
- Color Laser Printer
- Stain with Polyurethane
|Slagcoin was a great resource – these printable controller templates are just one of the great things they do.|
To cut it, I taped the template on the wood and cut ~2mm deep with the 30mm hole saw. I then cut the rest of the way with the 28mm hole saw. This created a nice countersink for the button surround to sit in perfectly snugly.
|OK getting better. See the white SPST switches in a pile on the right and the LEDs just above them.|
|What’s another hole in this thing?|
|Do. Not. Press.|
|This video card is solid.|
|Very low profile when the bezel is stripped – it was surprisingly well suited|
|Nearly flush mounted|
I removed all the bezels around the monitor leaving the bare panel. I mounted it on the underflooring plywood by tracing it’s outline and cutting it out, then mounting some small pieces of scrap wood to hold it in place. I wired the power cable into the PC power supply to have one source of electricity for the unit.
|How the monitor is held in.|
|Speakers held snugly in place with pipe strapping wrapped in black tape|
I found the PC was overheating so I took a 3″ hole saw to the side and mounted up a standard case fan with a nice looking chrome grill. This fan pulls air in, which then the processor fan blows over the heatsink, followed by the power supply that has an exhaust fan. This creates a good crossbreeze inside the arcade and eliminated any issues with overheating.
|Again, what’s another hole going to do?
I found that a permanent marker masked a lot of knicks and imperfections in the stain and edges – I would swipe the marker followed by a wet paper towel to blend it in quite effectively.
Here are some more photos of the build!
Windows 7 x64 seemed the clear choice for operating system. XP is missing a few features and doesn’t perform as well and Windows 8 has compatibility issues with some emulator software and doesn’t always like some resolutions and hacks that older emulators use to work properly.
Hyperspin is a front-end for that handles launching the correct software to play the selected game. It also handles showing artwork and videos of each game/system you have. Configuring Hyperspin is a massive undertaking and has a steep learning curve. I recommend you start with their forums and get involved with their community if your heart is in it. It’s very rewarding because nothing compares to it in terms of hiding the fact that it’s running on a PC.
Xpadder maps gamepad buttons/movements to keyboard keys. this allows me to standardize keys across different emulators and allows me to easily control systems – with this virtual keyboard – that don’t support gamepads. It also allows me to double up controls so I can plug Xbox 360 controllers in and have them work as P1 and P2 (along with P3 and P4 with more controllers!)
I needed a stand for a wine chiller. Wine fridge? Wine cooler? Bartles and Jaymes?
Complete shot first:
I had this extra bed headboard (and tailboard? is that a thing?). It’s from IKEA. It’s made of wood. I hate throwing
good wood away. I’ll burn/crush/destroy and otherwise exact lament upon particle board furniture all day long but in its original native tree form I have an affinity with it; I want to see it live anew; this respect is akin to a steak versus chicken nuggets.
I cut it down so the legs were all equal and gave them a staining.
I then cut the thin back board and linked them together with some dowels and wood glue to give it some rigidity and to get it to the right size.
I used some spare wood I had lying around as a topper for it and snapped up a segment of 1×2 (these not shown) to the back as a brace.
Final shot first:
What an unusual table!
What, an unusual table?
Have you ever seen a table like this? What was it for? A game? A ritual? I purchased it for the heavily discounted rate of $15 from Out of the Closet in Atwater Village a week or so ago. It was in bad shape:
- One loose leg
- It didn’t stand straight
- Appeared to have been dropped down several flights of stairs
- heavy gouging and missing hardware
- What was the leather thing? a lamp? a roulette wheel? a drum?
- Now that I see the photos I promise it looked worse in person
My teammate provided a bowl that seemed as though it was made for the giant circular hole,
Here it is all finished in the living room. It freed up a lot of space in the room and is a fun and unique piece to have around!
Proof of concept Arduino Speedometer
This needs some work.
A Treatise on Building and Installing Custom Suspension:
It’s not easy.
Install fully new suspension encompassing new springs and struts which lower the car approximately one-inch from its stock ride height. Do this without compromising safety and performance while maintaining daily driveability.
- 2x Koni Yellow B15 Sentra front adjustable strut inserts
- 2x KYB AGX rear adjustable gas struts
- 4x Hyperco Hypercoil Generation 2 lowering springs
- Reuse stock front strut housings
- Reuse all top hats and mounting bushings etc.
- 2x bicycle headset spacers
- Remove front struts and springs and disassemble
- Cut housings, drill out bottoms, and remove “blood n’ guts” to insert the Koni struts
- Modify Koni strut bottoms to clear CV boots, insert and reassemble with new springs
- Rear is the same as the front, only the rear struts are a direct replacement
This is my experience with the famous $50 automotive paintjob. Total cost here was about $50, maybe $65 with the addition of the cheap Harbor Freight buffer I bought. Equipment list:
- Quart of Rustoleum gloss white paint
- Odorless mineral spirits
- Cheap foam brushes galore
- 600, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit (wet) sand paper
- Rattle Spray Can of Rustoleum gray primer
- Harbor Freight palm orbiting buffer
And starting at day one (600 grit sand prep)…
- The Rickwrench site above is pretty much right on. I would recommend getting as good of a primer as you can underneath it all, preferably the color you’re painting it as the coverage is terrible.
- I bought a buffer from Harbor Freight which did a lot for the sheen, but this job is definitely in “good enough” territory. It’s nothing special.
- It feels durable but we’ll see what it does with the test of time. Looks great though, especially at 4 feet away